Day 38, Feb 12, Dunedin, NZ

There is a heavy Scottish influence here as the original settlers were from Scotland. Otago harbor has three ports: Port Chalmers, Ravensbourne and Dunedin. The harbor is a eleven mile long bay and Dunedin is at the end. That part is too shallow for vessels of the size of the Amsterdam. The lower harbor and the upper harbor are divided at Port Chalmers by the “Halfway Islands.” Port Chalmers lies 5 miles into the bay. A dredged depth of 36' is maintained for the Port Chalmers channel.

In the late 1830s this was a major whaling port and the influx of eurpoeans brought epidemics which greatly reduced the Maori population.

Our pilot came aboard at 0615 and we slowly passed through the narrow entrance to the channel then snaked our way up the channel past markers and shoals and pulled straight in to the container pier right at the foot of town. For once one could walk from the ship right into the town. By 0720 the port authorities boarded and soon we were cleared to go ashore.

Our choice this day took us ashore a little after 8. The scenic gorge train of diesel locomotive and old carriages waited on the pier next to the ship for another tour. We walked down the pier and boarded the small motor vessel Monarch and took bench seats on the bow. Immediately we were handed oil cloth slickers and a cup of tea. The tour was a narrated cruise back out the channel to view the sea birds, krill, albatross, fur seals and sea lions which we saw up close and in abundance. The seas were rolling at the entrance to the channel but our master knew his business and got us in close to the bluffs to see the nests of the albatross and to hear them chatter. ww.wildlife.co.nz

Albatross colony; this is an almost vertical  face

fur seal

Albatross and Gull

Next came the New Zealand Marine Studies Center for a look into their fish pools and aquariums and learn a bit about the sea life around NZ. Back into the bus and off to the Otago Peninsula to Taiaron Head (the headland) to “Natures Wonders” a working farm with tours on their many acres. We had a quick lunch in their restaurant then boarded 8 wheel Argo vehicles for a bouncy ride to the edge of the bluffs to look upon the fur seal colony.

A bouncy ride to another bay and an overlook on the sandy beach to see the yellow eyed penguin. One.

We did get a close up look at three others that were nesting up on the bluff but could not photograph them at the close range. Precautions must be taken so as to not disturb them,especially in their nesting.

view at Nature's Wonders farm

Baby seal

The next leg was again by bus and this time by the high road to Port Chalmers, deeper in the harbor. We continued into downtown Dunedin and got off the bus there to walk around the city center area known as The Octagon which is the area surrounding Victoria Park. The streets were blocked off and an annual street festival was in process, though it was drizzling by now. Crazy Days for the shops and vendors were set up selling artwork, preserves, crafts, woolen clothing and so on. The radio stations had set up mobile bandstands and music was live. The pubs were doing a grand business. We stopped in a convenience store for potato chips and pretzels. (I could not find pretzels anywhere in NZ) I did locate a 12 pack of NZ Tui Pale Ale. Julie found a florist and came back with fresh cut flowers for our cabin. A couple of locals on the street corner were playing the didgeridoo and some other instrument and gladly sold us a CD. (I'll see if this can be played on the ship's PA system whenever our Cruise Director Bruce makes an announcement.) When we did make it back to the ship the lines had been shortened and the engines turning over slowly. A couple of pipers played as we boarded and gave us a fine send off as we slipped lines, backed out, pivoted 180º in the narrows and slowly made our way down channel toward the sea. The tide was out and exposed flats of the starboard side were close by. The winding channel meant a few slow speed sharp turns zig zagging among the markers and the sea birds. 

downtown Dunedin

Lighthouse at harbor entrance

 

Now we have left the South Island and will head slowly South West for another adventure tomorrow.