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| Toopua |
A French protectorate 1843, French Colony 1880. Charted by Captain James Cook. Bora Bora is a volcanic island in the middle of a reef of . The Society Islands have a population of 250,000 and contain 610 square miles of land surface. Visit www.boraboraisland.com
I awoke suddenly at 0615 aware something was different, opened the curtains on looked right out onto the cruise ship Paul Gauguin as we passed her as we entered the bay between Bora Bora and the smaller islet Toopua. With the hook over the side we swung to an amazing view of the reef with its aquamarine water and fringed by the pounding surf on the deep water side. The island (motu) of Toopua is heavy with vegetation and palm lined beaches with a few wood huts scattered about. The water in the bay is a dark blue. The mountains the the main island have that sharp pinnacle look often associated with the sea islands. I see a resort with guest rooms of thatch built on stilts over the water. Island drums would complete the scene. For some reason the song “Bali Hai” keeps coming to mind. By 0830 the temperature hit 80 but the sea breeze kept us comfortable and a brief tropical shower rinsed the ship.
We took the tender ashore and bought Polynesian francs at the ATM then met Lomah who drives a tourist van. She took us around the island, stopping at historical sites and points of interest. During the drive we learned a lot about island society, nature of business, property ownership, history and government and came back with a great appreciation for the people here. It is more laid back and rural than Tahiti, Papeete is city, Bora Bora is community and countryside. This quickly became a favorite. Beautiful, clean, comfortable and friendly. Fresh tropical. The prices are high, but one must remember this is a small island far from supply. Most everything comes by ship, boat or air. The pretzels I bought to go with my Hinano (Tahitian) beer came from France. The Pringles knock-off came from Malaysia.
After a return to the ship for a rest and sprucing up we met friends in their cabin for a cocktail then caught a tender ashore and a shuttle to Bloody Marys on the SW side of the island. Famous for its fresh fish daily, its ambiance of the tropics and its fine selection of beverages, this proved to be a wise choice. One may check their shoes or sandals at the entrance and walk barefoot on the white sand of the floor to your table of heavy local wood and perch on heavy stools set in the sand. Okay, someone rakes the floor. The menu is presented verbally at the “door” while the food is displayed before you on a bed of ice. Make your selection and pad to your table. Julie had an outstanding grilled Wahoo steak and I enjoyed the best (grilled and peppered) red tuna I have tasted anywhere. Visit www.boraboraisland.com/bloodymarys/
The lights of the ships in the bay made a glittering addition to the sky, mountains and sea of night in French Polynesia. Whoever was playing the ukulele; thanks.
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